Millions of travelers come and go, and while many of them pack into the trodden tourist routes, they are generally right about one thing: Japan’s high-speed rail, the shinkansen operated by Japan Rail Co. (JR), is a pure marvel of civilization. Smooth, fast, fun, it’s a highlight for any traveler, and leaves a lasting impression. You can shave off huge distances in style, and efficiently explore all nooks of this awesome country. If you’re reading this, you already know from Tokyo you can easily head west to Kyoto, Osaka, and Hiroshima on the shinkansen, but we’re here to pull you away from that route and direct you to the alluring northern area of Honshuu: Tohoku.
Yamagata
For people living in Japan, the word Tohoku alone conjures images of rolling hills, winter sports and scenery, cozy rooms, and hot food. This particular winter trip led me first to Yamagata Station, a trip of just about two and a half hours from Tokyo. The train ride itself is great; long enough to feel like a proper adventure out of Tokyo, but I didn’t feel like my day was consumed in transit.
Ski, Snowboard, and Winter Fun
While relaxing in a hot spring hotel is a must in any winter travel, you might want to hit the slopes first for board, ski, or in some cases just to take in the sights. Two great ski resorts are easily accessible from Yamagata City.
Zao Onsen Ski Resort
Visitors are wowed by the picturesque “snow monster” formations here at Zao, and while of course you can challenge yourself with some of the best slopes in Tohoku, many choose to simply ride the gondola on foot for breathtaking views. The whole Zao area is dotted with hotels and attractions, and while it is one of the more popular destinations, many choose to spend their entire time in Tohoku here.
Tendo Kogen Ski Resort
About 30 minutes by car or bus from Tendo Station (one stop past Yamagata Station), this mellow resort is great for families and casual skiers who want a little snow action before moving on. Rentals are available, a large cafeteria serves up hot dishes, and in addition to beginner/intermediate courses, the “kids land” is an option for little ones to have some sledding fun!
Eating and breathing Japan’s countryside culture in Yamadera
Risshakuji Temple
Winter exploration doesn’t necessarily need to involve a ski operation; sometimes on foot is fine. Yamadera is accessed from Yamagata Station on the JR Senzan in a 20～30 minute ride, and here you can enjoy the mystique of mountainside temples. A walk from the station past souvenir shops, soba restaurants, and cafes will bring you to Risshakuji Temple, your first stop before ascending the stairs into the cliffs. The forested allure and wide winter views whisk you away to fantasy Japan, and the ascent to the peak temple is about 25 minutes at a normal pace. I arrived early in the morning, and savored the tranquility of the mountain before any more groups of walkers arrived.
Enzo Soba Restaurant
Just before returning to Yamagata City, I took a lunch at Enzo Soba, conveniently placed right outside JR Yamadera Station. I was surprised by the extensive selection, and even happy to see some ramen options as well. Relaxing on tatami seating in the traditional wooden interior, I went with a plate, a “zaru”, of soba noodles accompanied by one of Yamagata’s famous dishes “imo-ni”, a kind of hearty soup with soft mountain potatoes, meat, and local veggies. In fact, Yamagata holds the “Imo-ni Festival” each Autumn, attracting people countrywide looking to warm their bodies with the savory broth.
Tendo, a tasteful city of art and relaxation
The bulk of my Yamagata trip was here in Tendo City, soaking up the artistic culture, hot baths, and locally produced wines and beers. After the short excursions of ski resorts and temples, this city was a fantastic place to make my home base for a day and night.
Tendo City Museum
A blend of modern and old, this museum preserves some of the most valuable pieces in the city, and rotates the exhibits multiple times throughout the year. When I visited in January, the main exhibit was contemporary art in the early 20th century. The beautiful works were reminiscent of the famous “ukiyo-e” from classical Japan, but with a modern feel reflecting Japan’s gradual globalization of the time. The curator commented extensively that Japanese artists’ unique color creation and application is what gives Japanese art its inexplicable allure. The permanent exhibits on the roof from sculptor Yutaka Toyoda were also a sight to see, not to mention the rolling, snowy mountains coloring the backdrop beyond the city limits. (Please check with the reception desk for information on filming in the main exhibition areas.)
Dewazakura Museum
Located next to the Dewazakura Sake Brewery, this quaint “museum” is actually a renovated traditional Japanese home. This museum is less focused on art, and more about showing preserved artifacts of daily life in the Japanese countryside. Letter openers, pipes, pottery, antique furniture and the like add a very homely feel to the wooden interiors and maze of tatami-laden rooms. This was a calming experience, and highly recommended to those who might grow bored with paintings alone.
(The exhibits in the photo are artifacts produced during the Joseon Yi Dynasty. The exhibits are changed seasonally.)
Hiroshige Museum of Art
A central landmark of Tendo City, the first floor is an organic grocer/souvenir shop as well as cafe. The spacious entrance hall welcomes you, and up in the second floor is a cozy little museum that doubles as a library, full of precious text resources about art, architecture, history, and all things Yamagata. This museum displays Hiroshige’s Ukiyo-e depictions of traditional Japanese life and scenery. The exhibition features works from the long line of artists in this family, depicting classic images of Japan that inspire the spirit of travel.
Local Yamagata flavors to soothe and satisfy
Tendo Spa and Brewery – Yubo Ichiraku
This hotel has been newly renovated into a brilliantly stylish modern inn, but with that rustic Japanese flare we all love. They brew their own beer here, and have a tastefully designed bar and lounge area, boasting an “all-inclusive” service for their guests. This will please anyone who likes to partake, as it is a fancy way of saying “all you can drink” during your stay. Even if you’re not staying the night however, you can still drop in for a soak in the hot spring bath and a couple of drinks on Weekdays from 11am to 6pm, weekends and holidays from 11am to 1pm. Considering the luxurious dinner you’re treated to, the soothing feel of rooms with either bed or futon options, and the free-flowing beverages, the rates are quite reasonable, and the location will put you in the perfect place to explore what this city has to offer.
“Oyatsu-ya-san’s” Don-Don Yaki
This locally conceived “junk food” ought to rival the heavy-hitting “takoyaki” from Osaka that everyone knows and loves. Similarly made from a flavored batter, this snack is grilled on an iron skillet, and rolled into what I could only call a “savory Japanese burrito”. Toppings like cheese, mayonnaise, spicy sauce, or just plain soy sauce give you many ways to enjoy this inexpensive bundle of carby goodness. It’s quite famous actually, and has been featured on national TV, with many of Japan’s TV personalities stopping by for their fill. And if you’re not busy, cheap drinks are served promptly from 5pm, spicing up the evening fun for locals and visitors.
Chetto Sake tasting
Given that I had to catch a train and couldn’t stay at the Don Don Yaki place, I thought I’d get a slight buzz from a selection of Yamagata sake and wine before my shinkansen trip back. This facility is within the massive “Kajo Central” building next to Yamagata Station. Here on the 1st floor you’ll find the tourist information center as well as this unique self-serve tasting room. Browse the sakes and wines on tap, and use a special coin (1000 yen for 6 coins) to get a shot of a brand that catches your eye. It’s the perfect way to sample numerous sakes at your leisure, and in my opinion a great way to top off a Yamagata trip before your cozy evening ride back.
“Ekiben” for the ride home
Closing my trip with food! “Eki” means station, and “Bento” is boxed lunch, and the combination of those two give you “Ekiben”: novelty boxed meals sold exclusively at train stations (most commonly shinkansen stations). These often do a good job of combining the ingredients and flare of the area, giving you a taste of the local gourmet. For many people stopping through on business, this might be their only chance to have something truly local! I had more time to try things, but I still wanted to take some of the Yamagata vibe with me as I zipped through the snowy scenery back to Tokyo. I’ll be back soon!
